Cullen, Diana Madeline, Margaret River 2018

This is a superb edition of this revered, cabernet-based blend with such complete, seamless and elegant feel, yet there’s such depth of flavor, too. Aromas of fresh redcurrants, red and violet flowers, subtle spice, fresh earth, paper bark, fresh-picked thyme and sage, red berries and some cedary notes. The palate is stunning and has a brand of elegance with power that is found in only the greatest wines. Pristine mulberries, red plums, blueberries and red cherries sail through layers of fine tannin, into an unwaveringly long and vibrant finish. An exceptionally concentrated and convincing Diana Madeline release, this is one of their finest. A blend of 79% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot, 6% cabernet franc and 5% malbec. Delicious now, but his will bloom from 2028. Screw cap.

The 2018 Diana Madeline hails from a sensational vintage in Margaret River. Along with 2023, it may be one of the very best—certainly the former has achieved this status already. The season was warm and dry, and crucially, the marri blossoms were abundant this year, meaning the Silvereyes—the local and viticulturally pesky birds—found their appetites sated without the need of grapes, which was a blessing for producers. For the first time, the fruit is quietly beginning to recede into the tannins (tertiary notes of cocoa, leather and dried bay leaf are emerging), and this is impressive, as it has taken nearly eight years from its harvest for this tertiary creep to start. "Finally!" we say. Even the 2020 tasted alongside is showing more fruit recession than this wine, showing the elite nature of the season. Whatever it is, it remains a great wine, one that will stand the test of time. 13.6% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.

According to the technical data supplied by Cullen Wines, the 2018 Diana Madeline was harvested over the fruit and flower days of the biodynamic calendar, including one full moon fruit day for the Cabernet Franc and Merlot. The grapes were taken to tank, barrel and some amphorae for fermentation. Here, they were fermented naturally without yeast or malolactic additions and with no adjustment to flavor outside a small sulfur dioxide addition. The wine spent 14 to 27 days on the skins before being gently basket pressed to barrel. The varietal blend is 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 5% Malbec.

Glass-staining violet. Highly perfumed, spice- and mineral-accented red and blue fruit, exotic spice, potpourri and incense aromas show superb clarity and pick up hints of woodsmoke, cured tobacco and vanilla with aeration. Sweet, seamless and incisive on the palate, offering intense blueberry, cherry liqueur, spicecake and candied rose flavors and a hint of cracked pepper. Deepens steadily through the extremely persistent finish, which features youthfully gripping tannins and resonating floral and blue fruit notes. 50% new French oak.