Domaine Ponsot, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, Cuvee Vieilles Vignes 2018

Ponsot’s 2018 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Cuvée Vieilles Vignes was only bottled in July 2020, and its extended élevage has really refined the wine. Opening in the glass with aromas of dark berries, cherries and plums mingled with dark chocolate, preserved citrus peel, woodsmoke and spices, it’s full-bodied, concentrated and powerful, with real depth and mid-palate amplitude, its rich, powdery tannins largely concealed in a generous core of fruit. This is a muscular wine somewhat reminiscent of a more gourmand version of the domaine’s 2005, and it will demand patience.

Drink 2028 - 2068

The 2018 Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru offers darker fruit on the nose, confit raspberry mixed with cassis scents, maybe showing a little overripeness. The volatility begins to impede after 10 minutes in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, quite velvety smooth, with an attractive spiciness that comes through on the finish. This is a very fine Clos de la Roche, discombobulated slightly by the growing season. There’s a chance it might redeem itself in bottle, but I feel only a small chance.

Drink 2025 - 2046