Gaja, Barbaresco 2018

Aromas of ripe strawberries with hazelnuts, blood oranges and some coconut. Full-bodied with very refined and polished tannins that nicely form this young red wine. Fresh and delicious aftertaste of berry, cedar, bark and dark chocolate. Ever so subtle, yet powerful and driven at the finish. Very long and intense. Very classical style to it and cooler. This is a blend of seven vineyards including the Costa Russi and Sori Tilden. Approachable now, but better after 2025 and onwards.

In 2018 Gaja did not produce any Sorì. All the grapes of San Lorenzo and Tildin have been used for this Barbaresco instead. 'It was a classic vintage, similar to 1991 or 1993,' said Rossana Gaja, 'however with 14% of alcohol.' It was cool and damp, so don't look for concentration, but the refinement and the freshness of this wine packs a punch. Scents of red berries, fresh violets, orange peel, wet slate and soft chocolate are followed by red fruit flavours. It's medium-bodied, loaded with polished tannins and lit up by racy acidity. More stylish than ageworthy, in my experience classic vintages such as this can give stunning results in the near term.

Drink 2021 - 2033.

The Gaja 2018 Barbaresco is a wine of grace and purpose, with an elegant bouquet and a more powerful palate presence. These recent releases from the venerated house of Gaja are some of the most transparent and honest expressions to be found anywhere in the Langa. Some of the flashiness we saw in the past is today replaced by subtle Nebbiolo nuances and finesse, with crushed flowers, coriander, wild berry, smoke, tar and candied orange peel. This shift in character runs parallel to the slow and careful management transition from an older generation to a younger one. This 2018 vintage comes alive in the mouth, thanks to its balanced acidity and the absolutely bright and pristine quality of fruit delivered with such care.

Drink 2025 - 2048