Henschke, Mount Edelstone Vineyard, Eden Valley 2018

First bottled in 1952 by Stephen Henschke's father Cyril, this reknowned cuvée is likely Australia's longest consecutively produced single-site wine, from a vineyard planted in 1912. A gem of a old-vine wine in every sense (it is named for the yellow opals once found in the area), it is spectacular in this vintage. The mouthfeel is seductive and supple, carrying trademark savoury bay leaf, sage and peppercorn notes that integrate beautifully into ripe, black bramble and blood plum flavours. Structure for long ageing is assured by firm yet velvety tannins and fresh acidity. A gorgeous, opulent, complex wine that, on several tastings over three days, I preferred to Hill of Grace.

The 2018 Mount Edelstone Vineyard Shiraz is inky and powerful, sweetly fruited and bright. The tannins are almost lost in the abundance of the plush fruit power. This is an impressive wine, one that shows a splay of savory tannins and looks just as fresh as the day I tasted it. If anything, it is more impressive today—it feels as if it has not moved in the eight years since its harvest. This is excellent. It has a pH of 3.54, 6.47 grams per liter of total acidity and 14.5% alcohol.

According to Henschke: "A moderately wet winter was followed by ideal flowering conditions in late spring/early summer, leading to the potential for near-average yields. Late December became warm and dry, ensuring healthy canopies with low disease pressure. Late summer was typically warm and dry, characterized by above-average overnight temperatures. March and April provided light and warmth, leading to full and balanced maturity being achieved across all grape varieties. Shiraz was one of the highlights of the season, fittingly so in the year we celebrated our 150th anniversary of Henschke family winemaking."

Serious, fulfilling nose but super elegant, with subtle spices, sage, spearmint, heather, ink, dark chocolate, red-berry fruit and blueberries. A refreshing citrus note, reminiscent of bergamot. Almost plush but nothing heavy here, instead, this is quite ethereal with agility on the palate with even, ultra-fine tannins that are beguilingly sweet. The silky, fresh and persistent finish lasts almost two minutes. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

Century-old single vineyard Shiraz, planted 1912, growing in the northern section of Eden Valley where there are abundant clay soils. Of the range of single vineyards, this one has clear depth of colour, and plenty of plump fruit, juice and balance. Sit back and feel your tastebuds firing up with pepper, sage, bayleaf, explosive layers of spiced blueberry and raspberry fruit forming an arrow through the palate. Crazy depths, velvety fine tannins, a real showcase of Eden Valley Shiraz. Organic and biodynamic farming. 27% new oak, a mix of largely French with some American oak, large sized. Dry farmed (although the following year, 2019, the option to irrigate was introduced). Winemaker Stephen Henschke.