Le Pin, Pomerol 2018

Le Pin 2018 has a deep garnet purple color. It opens with notions of cedar, blackcurrants, and plum preserves, giving way to sandalwood, anise, and dried roses, plus a hint of cinnamon stick. The medium to full-bodied palate is very perfumed and elegant, with layer upon layer of black fruits and exotic spices plus ultra-plush tannins and seamless acidity, finishing very long and fragrant. WOW.

A heady, exotic wine, the 2018 Le Pin is rapturous right out of the gate. Waves of intense dark fruit cascade over the senses. The 2018 is a majestic, hypnotically beautiful Pomerol that really dazzles. Inky dark fruit, cherry, menthol, spice and chocolate are all fused together. The 100% new oak, a bit intrusive en primeur, has assimilated nicely. Time in the glass brings out exotic floral and spice notes. Le Pin is beyond my means, and probably beyond most readers' means, but it is undeniably great. And I mean great.

The blackberries, iron shavings and black olives on the nose are captivating. Full-bodied with lots of toffee and smoky undertones to the ripe and round tannins. Very exciting and flavorful with softness and beauty. Drinkable now, but better in two or three years.

This is extremely good, expansive and luxurious with a stunning texture – vibrant and powerful, and a floral side that becomes clear as it opens in the glass, lifting the whole thing not through acidity but through aromatics. The real difference with Le Pin and other 100% Merlot wines is the sumptuousness through the mid palate, it’s so wide and rich, you can’t just walk over it but lie down on it, feather pillow style. They had a yield of 30hl/ha, mainly due to thicker than usual skins with some concentration at the finish, and added a selected rather than indigenous yeast to deal with the alcohol levels. 3.7Ph. 70IPT. 2019, by the way, is the 40th anniversary vintage here for the Thienponts.

Tasting the 2018 Le Pin from barrel, I was intrigued by its Left Bank–like personality on the nose. Now in bottle, though it is not as obvious as before, it still flirts with Médocian traits thanks to its very attractive, very subtle graphite and marine scents. It has wonderful delineation, pixelated and focused. The palate is medium-bodied and demonstrates a touch more tannic spine. Wonderfully focused and detailed, maybe a touch spicier than recent vintages, with disarming harmony and effortlessness. It is self-aware that it is a great Le Pin.

I’ll taste the 2018 Le Pin from barrel again in April for en primeur, but I was thrilled with this early look, and it appears to be a step up over the 2017. Boasting a vivid purple color and magical notes of kirsch, cassis, and black raspberries, with integrated, high-class oak, it’s full-bodied, has building, sweet tannins, no hard edges, and a pure, sexy, seamless style. Count me impressed.