Quintessa, Rutherford 2018

This is beautifully polished with firm, dusty tannins to the blue fruit, as well as chocolate and cedar character. Some much earthier character, too, from mushrooms to bark. Forest flowers. Perfumed. It’s full-bodied with round tannins and a soft, creamy finish. Some iron and iodine to this. So attractive at the finish. From biodynamically grown grapes. Better after 2023.

Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2018 Quintessa (Cabernet Sauvignon) sashays out with crème de cassis, blackberry preserves and redcurrant jelly scents, plus wafts of dark chocolate, anise and lavender with a touch of tobacco. Medium to full-bodied, elegantly styled and stunningly energetic, it has a fine-grained texture and long, fragrant finish.

A less traditional style of wine in Napa Valley, this is lifted and charming with poise, powdery tannins and a chalky finish. Richly perfumed and wonderfully evocative on the nose, it’s seductive and inviting with black cherries, raspberries and blueberries alongside savoury notes of dried herbs. The flavours open and evolve on the palate bringing cocoa, tobacco and pencil lead into play underpinned by supple tannins. It’s powerful but on the leaner side, refined and elegant with a good sense of direction and drive - everything feels well placed and well defined. Tasted twice and both times were highly enjoyable. A blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc, 2% Merlot, 2% Carmenére and 1% Petit Verdot. Wines are aged for 20 months in oak, 100% French, 62% new. Biodynamically grown and certified organic. Winemaker Rebekah Wineburg and estate director Rodrigo Soto.

There is a physicality to the tannins from the first moments, with a slate grain that slows progress down through the palate. The raspberry and blackcurrant fruit is concentrated and confident with a mouthwatering tension and energy, rippled with sage, liqourice root and grilled cocoa. This is a wine that you can drink with great pleasure today but it will age - and likely shut down for a few years along the way. Native yeasts. First vintage in the redesigned winery, and together with the improved precision in the vineyard since the arrival of Rebekah Wineberg you find an extra kick of magic in the glass. Consultant Michel Rolland, 60% new oak for ageing.

The 2018 Red Wine is a powerful, driving Napa Valley wine. Scorched earth, iron, chocolate, and leather give the red cherry/plum fruit distinctly savory accents. This is an especially tight wine in a vintage that yielded generally more supple, open-knit reds. Quintessa is one of the first Napa Valley estates I visited, many years ago. Since then, the property has undergone several stylistic phases. It will be interesting to see where things go over the next handful of years here.