Ao Yun 2019

Very scented, complex and layered with a classy nose full of ripe currants, smoke and sweet tobacco leaves. Graphite, charcoal, exotic herbs and cigar box. A hint of black truffle and tapenade, too. Full body with fine, silky tannins that highlight the juicy aspect of this wine. Dusty tannins gradually build up on the palate in a crescendo, following through to a juicy, precise and lengthy finish. Super-polished and refined. There is still cabernet verticality on the palate. The finest Ao Yun so far? It has a finish that lasts almost two minutes. 67% cabernet sauvignon, 17% cabernet franc, 10% syrah and 6% petit verdot. This is a blend of 23% of Xidang village, 21% Sinong, 32% Shuori and 24% Adong. Already drinkable now, but should hold until 2026.

Vivid dark purple in the glass - such a striking, gorgeous dark plum colour with matching scents of damsons, plums, spiced blackcurrant, liquorice, chocolate, fragrant dried rose petals, pot pourri floral elements, hoisin, peppercorns and cola. A riot of aromas on the nose - this smells deep and rich yet fresh also with a salty minerality. Supple and full in the mouth, massy with firm tannins that give a beautifully integrated structure. Mouthwateringly juicy, but really well balanced so the acidity doesn't stick out. Blueberries, blackcurrants and black cherries on the palate, fresh and lively. Quite a powerful, concentrated mouthful but kept lively by the acidity and overall freshness. Bright, focussed, crystalline quality to the fruit with a wonderful juiciness and overall zing. Hints of spiced liquorice, smoke, tobacco, clove, cinnamon and a touch of minerality as well as a fresh mint (menthol and eucalyptus) finish. Clean and precise, feels well worked, detailed with good persistence. Lots going on here. Still quite compact and full of spice but extremely nuanced and characterful. Lots of enjoyment to be had here and great ageing potential too. 6% Petit Verdot completes the blend. Director and winemaker Maxence Dulou. Ageing a third oak barrels, new oak and Chinese stoneware with the final blend decided in Hong Kong at sea level to avoid the dry air at altitude. 2019 was one of the smallest crops with an overall yield of just 16hl/ha. The vintage saw a more rainy and cool winter than average with a late budburst but homogenous, dry and warm spring - one of the warmest and driest ever. A little bit more rain fell during the summer than average with a dry and cool end of season. Overall very heterogeneous over 28ha (727 different plots) needing the latest and longest harvest since the project began lasting 72 days from 9 September to 21 November.

Immediate impact of scented herbs, with waves of iris and chalky violet, this is intense and concentrated with gourmet edges of chocolate and liqourice root, but everything seems chiselled, hewn, precisely constructed. It has been a pleasure seeing this wine develop since its inaugural vintage, and here it feels far much more quietly confident than the early years when oak impact was more evident. What you get here instead is a nuanced complexity that reflects a true fine wine with sinewed muscles and plenty of ageing potential. 2019 saw a cool winter with a late bud burst, then the driest, warmest Spring since the project began followed by a cooler summer, with an extended harvest from September 9 to November 21, 72 days in total (compared to an average of 54 days) and a low yield of 16hl/h. 30% Chinese stoneware jars, 35% oak barrels, 35% new oak barrels for ageing, final blend done at sea level in Hong Kong. The introduction of the village crus last year to the Ao Yun range has helped finesse the selection from the four villages, and you feel the impact here - 53% of production is in this wine from 28ha of vines set across 727 plots.