Belargus Anjou Roueres 2019

"'Les Rouères' is one of the three plots listed in the original decree creating the Quarts-de-Chaume appellation, on the eastern side," reports Ivan Massonat. "The soils, thin and hot, rest on pudding sandstone—sand concretions and rolled gravel—accumulating the heat of the day and restoring it at night. This solar terroir gives birth to charming, ample and complex wines," finds Massonnat. His golden-colored 2019 Anjou Sec Rouères, from a 2.96-hectare plot, opens with a deep, intense and rich yet immediately also crystalline, fresh and concentrated bouquet of ripe and warm fruits intertwined with refreshing and piquant grapefruit and smoked speck aromas (think warm baked dates wrapped in bacon). The Rouères seems cooler, more crystalline and purer than the expansive, rich and narcotic 2019 Veau. Accordingly, the introduction on the palate is crystalline and full of vibrant minerality, purity and fine tannins, whereas the fruit is more lean and bitter, intertwined with tannins, heroic acidity and salts. The finish is still tight and reminiscent of candied lemons and a tequila-like salt and lemon mix. The 2019 Rouères is much less Dionysian at this early stage but Appollinese. The nose is almost a bit dusty, pure and stony as it is, and the oh-so-salty and piquant palate is built on finesse and mineral freshness rather than richness and power. This is definitely a wine to cellar for 10 or 20 years, and certainly longer. The still-tight and austere but tensile 2019 Rouères should gain complexity and texture with bottle age and eventually might also develop some hedonistic features, but for now it pleases most of all the Riesling aficionados among us. Natural cork. Tasted in September 2021.