Chateau Sociando-Mallet, Haut-Medoc 2019

Some savoury elements on the nose, olive and black tapenade. Excellent concentration on the palate, less fruit forward at this point than the Demoiselle second wine, but excellent tension and power – really taut, all in line, straight, driven. A lot going on aromatically – cinnamon, cigar box, cedar, smoke and dark chocolate – really super-complex, with tannins that are smooth but present and a minty finish. Layered and precise, you can feel the sculpting of the fruits and the well-handled oak and extraction. Excellent.

Located on one of the best quality gravel slopes of the Haut-Médoc, in the village of St Seurin de Cadourne, this is packed with cassis and damson fruits, plenty of tannic structure that holds everything firmly in place but lets the juice through even at this young point in its life. This is a blockbuster Sociando, one of the best in recent vintages, one to cellar for a good five or six years and then let rip. Cocoa bean, liquorice, slate, all delivered with poise and control. Elegant and a little austere right now but everything is in place for the future. A fitting tribute to Jean Gautreau (you'll see Hommage à Jean Gautreau on the bottle). A yield of 43hl/ha. 90% new oak. Consultant oenologist Michel-Bernard Couasnon.

A juicy, flavorful red with blackberry and blueberry character. Some dark chocolate and walnuts, too. It’s full-bodied and layered with hazelnut and spice undertones. Velvety and poised.

The 2019 Sociando Mallet is elegant, nuanced and understated. Sweet red cherry, plum, mocha, spice, leather, tobacco, incense and dried flowers all open nicely. The purity of the fruit is just lovely. In 2019, Sociando is classy and polished. It is also an understated wine that needs time to show its full potential, which is considerable.

The 2019 Sociando Mallet has more presence on the nose than the Le Boscq; the fruit is darker and bolder. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins, plenty of blackcurrant and raspberry fruit laced with cedar and black pepper. Solid, if missing a little elegance on the finish. Give it a couple of years and it will steadily climb back to its appraisal after bottling. Tasted blind at the Southwold annual tasting.