Crozes Ermitage, Les Varonniers, Maison M. Chapoutier 2019

Not yet bottled, the 2019 Crozes-Ermitage Les Varonniers comes from the Varogne lieu-dit located just to the west of Hermitage. This is a cooler, more shaded vineyard of pure granite soils, and I always find an Hermitage-like character in this wine. Lots of blackberry, cassis, crushed stone, leather, and violet notes emerge from the glass, and it's rich, full-bodied, and powerful on the palate, with lots of structure yet more than enough fruit. The quality of this cuvée has soared recently and the 2019 will be another gem readers will love.

Saturated ruby. Expansive aromas of ripe blackberry, cherry liqueur, licorice, vanilla and candied violet are energized by exotic spice and mineral flourishes. Broad and fleshy on the palate, offering densely packed, smoke-laced black and blue fruit, mocha, olive paste, exotic spice and floral pastille flavors that show fine detail and mineral lift. The impressively long, smoky finish echoes the floral and mineral notes and is framed by steadily building, even tannins. Raised in oak barrels, 25% of them new.