Cullen, Diana Madeline, Margaret River 2019

87% Cabernet sauvignon, with 7/3/2/1% merlot/cabernet franc/malbec/petit verdot. Matured for 15 months in barrique, 45% new. Cassis and red licorice on the nose, bay and salt bush, too. The palate is salty and fine with layers upon layers of spice and texture. The tannins are like finely textured gills, stacked as delicately as the folds in a mushroom. The length of flavour unfurls and extends across the palate, taking so long to fade that this entire tasting note is possible off one sip. The rest are just for pleasure. Drink it now, or in 40+ years from now… both will be possible.

Vanya Cullen is the tannin whisperer. Here, the finest of fine tannins are saturated deep within the fresh dark berry and currant fruit, conferring a dryness to the palate. This lends gravitas, without detracting from the fruit purity and sheer fluid grace of delivery. Finely honed, the fruit is perfumed with roses, violets, tobacco, bitter chocolate and cedar. A pronounced graphite and gravel undertow persists through the prolonged, elegant finish.