Domaine Raymond Usseglio, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Imperiale 2020

So deep and dark, yet with such vitality and energy, this is a great Chateauneuf that’s remarkably drinkable right now. I love the exotic touch (pomegranate and mangosteen) and, in spite of the density, this has a graceful finish that glides over our palate and off into the distance. A grenache-based blend from vines planted in 1901 and 1902. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drink or hold.

From a parcel of vines planted in 1902 (almost entirely Grenache but with a few other varieties sprinkled throughout), the 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Imperiale is aromatically complex, with hints of piney, resinous herbs, rose petals, stone fruit, cherry and pomegranate. Full-bodied, the wine seems supple at first, but then tannins rise on the finish, turning it dry and dusty. Give it time. Tasted twice (once blind), with consistent notes.

Generous, deep, focused, fruity and defined, this isn't giving away much at this stage, but it certainly has a good sense of freshness and balance. Powerful finish with fairly assertive tannins, with a little dry touch that should soften in time. Long finish. A wine like a finely tailored suit. From Grenache planted in 1901.

The 2020 Châteauneuf Du Pape Cuvée Imperiale is another more lifted, perfumed, almost exotic wine, and while it’s certainly a terrific wine, it’s a step back from the all-time greats from this address. Red and black fruits, candied strawberries, Asian spices, and peppery notes give way to a medium to full-bodied Châteauneuf du Pape with good mid-palate depth, ripe tannins, and outstanding length. It’s young and a little gangly at the moment, so give bottles 3-4 years in the cellar.