Grattamacco, Bolgheri, Superiore 2020

A stellar wine, the 2020 Grattamacco is dark, vibrant and nuanced to the core. Black fruit, lavender, spice, leather, menthol and dried herbs infuse the 2020 with tons of character and complexity. Deep yet also wonderfully translucent, the 2020 is one of the most finessed Grattamacco’s I can remember tasting. There’s incredible depth and resonance here, not to mention tons of personality.

I only tasted two wines from Grattamacco this year, but both are impressive. In 2020, the wines have an extra kick of energy that is quite welcome. Relative to its peers, Grattamacco remains one of the more under-the-radar estates in Bolgheri.

Drink 2026 - 2040

Next up is the 2020 Grattamacco, which really takes things up a notch. A deep ruby red, it offers decadent and harmoniously layered aromas of pristine oak spice, fresh leather, mossy earth, tobacco, and kirsch. Full-bodied and refined, it has a velvety texture, plush tannins, even acidity, and a long finish. This demands to be cellared and will continue to improve if adequately stored over the next two decades and likely beyond.

Grattamacco is helmed today by Luca Marrone, chief winemaker for ColleMassari Wine Estates. The estate was founded in 1977 by Piermario Meletti Cavallari Giorgio Meletti Cavallari’s father). Luca is one of the more thoughtful and exciting winemakers, producing compelling wines with remarkable focus and transparency of place across each of the regions. Today, they have 32 hectares of vines, predominantly of Cabernet Sauvignon, along with Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese, and a small amount of Petit Verdot. They also have the oldest Vermentino vines in Bolgheri, and the white wines hold an important place in the range. 

Touring the winery, they have a collection of some of the first open-tank barrels that Sassicaia used in their first vintage in 1968, which Grattamacco continues to use, and they are an important part of informing their wines today.

Drink 2026 - 2046

In addition to the 2019 vintage, I previewed the 2020 and the 2021 vintages. I'm giving a temporary review to the 2020 Bolgheri Superiore Grattamacco, but I'm holding back on the 2021 because it is too early. We have two exciting vintages before us. The 2021 that is still in barrel) shows lots of perfumed intensity and an explosive mouthfeel. The 2020 tastes balanced and long with even more tannic structure to hold it firmly stitched together. The 2021 shows a seamless delivery of soft black fruit, cherry, spice and grilled herb. This is an iconic blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot and Sangiovese.

Drink 2025 - 2045

Aromatic nose of blackcurrants, berries and cherries, and hints of flowers and smooth oak. Full-bodied with a super-clean and intense bead of fruit running through the lightly firm tannins to give a long, only lightly abrasive finish. From organically grown grapes. A classy, well-structured blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and Sangiovese. 

Drinkable now, but better from 2024.