Grosset, Polish Hill Riesling, Clare Valley 2020

The clean, fresh aromas of just-picked citrus fruits belie the enormous power of lime juice and rich lemon pith that immediately fills the front palate on this latest vintage. There’s poise in addition to the power though, with multiple layers of rounded citrus and mineral flavours enjoying a luxurious textural roll through the mid-palate. Perfect integration of fresh citric acid carries the pure fruit qualities through extraordinary length to a crisp, lip-smacking finish.

This is a wine that is overlaid on itself: citrus fruit, jasmine florals and pith are draped over white pepper, jasmine tea and sea salt; these layers are fixed to the firm acid and phenolic structure that is the flesh and body of this wine. This is a tightly packed, savoury, serious, searing riesling with authority and gravitas. The length of flavour is something to behold. There is a lightness and a purity in 2020 that confirms life and lift – where the ’19 had a warmth and sunshine in it – this is dappled shade and cool breeze.

Stony and mineral character here with a spicy, wet-stone nose and a wealth of lime and light peach, as well as talcum powder. Chiseled palate with linear acidity and drive. Fresh, long and quite expressive already. Has the potential to improve in bottle as well. Drink or hold. Screw cap.