L'If, Saint-Emilion 2020

The 2020 L'If is shaping up to be a jewel of a wine. In most vintages so far, L'If has been a dense, textured Saint-Émilion. In 2020, all of that energy seems directed toward extreme verticality rather than heft. I have to say, it’s a style I like a lot. Bright acids and persistent tannins drive a core of red/purplish fruit, while floral, spice and mineral-drenched accents linger. The 2020 is a blend of 84% Merlot and 16% Cabernet Franc, picked on 9/16, 9/24 and 9/26 for the Merlot and 10/1 for the Franc. This is the first vintage that includes fruit from a new parcel in the Saint-Étienne-de-Lisse district. A statuesque, captivating beauty, L'If is loaded with potential. I loved it.

The 2020 L'If has a slightly more savory bouquet than the preceding 2020 Quintus, perhaps with a higher proportion of Cabernet Franc (16% in this blend). The complexity really comes through with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied, fresh and quite saline, with firm tannins and hints of oyster shells toward the long, refined finish. This fans out wonderfully. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting.