Porseleinberg, Swartland 2020

The 2020 Porseleinberg is aged for 12 months in foudres, blended in concrete and then aged 16 months in bottle. It is very fragrant on the nose with black fruit, white pepper, fennel and hints of lavender, not unlike a mature Jamet in style. The palate is medium-bodied with a light and peppery entry, beautifully proportioned with fine tannins. Old World in style, very focused, it gently builds momentum to a bewitchingly complex Porseleinberg that will give 20-30 years drinking pleasure. Divine.

My three-vintage vertical starts with the Porseleinberg 2020 Swartland Syrah. This was a challenging vintage, and although the wines are generally more subdued in terms of aromas, they do offer great structure. However, they tend not to have the complexity and nuance of the cooler 2021, for example. This wine is ultimately more accessible, with sweet earth and a floral note of rose or lilac. The vintage saw no big weather drama or drought. As the wine opens in the glass, you get a botanical note of dried herb and rosemary and a mineral note that reminds me of shiny mica stone. Indeed, winemaker Callie Louw tells me that those mineral tones and the tannins reflect the Kaolin clay, the same clay used to make porcelain found in these parts (and after which this winery gets its name).