Domaine Bournet-Lapostolle, Clos Apalta, Apalta 2021

Extremely aromatic with red currants, blackcurrants, spices, iodine, paprika and subtle hints of white pepper. Fresh flowers, fresh sage, lavender and some pine needles and sandalwood. Medium-bodied with perfectly integrated tannins that go on for minutes with refined and harmonious fruit that integrates beautifully into the wine, giving it a weightless structure that shows class and verve. Endless balance and length. It’s so balanced that you could drink it now but it will age for decades. A blend of 75% carmenere, 18% cabernet sauvignon and 7% merlot. Best after 2028.

The 2021 Clos Apalta comprises 75% Carménère, with the remainder filled out by Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, sourced from the eponymous Apalta Vineyard. It was aged for 24 months in oak barrels, two-thirds of which were new. This dark purple wine reveals nuanced aromas of graphite, herbs, dried plums and blackberry marmalade, complemented by mint, boldo and garrigue-like notes over a green bell pepper layer. Plush and ample on the palate, it is lifted by a mild refreshing quality that adds a rare nimbleness to its flow. This long-lasting red is a serious wine, less influenced by Michel Rolland's style than in other years, as the fresh vintage imparted a lighter, less ripe and more expressive character. Clos Apalta is one of those rare Chilean wines that reliably showcases the characteristics of each vintage while maintaining a consistent house style. That steadiness is a boon for consumers, as it allows them to appreciate the impact of different vintages, which is a significant part of the allure of high-quality wines.

Hillside granitic vineyards, alongside older vines dating back to 1907 on the flatlands. A kick of spice greets you on the opening, this is reserved at first with carefully constructed dense blackcurrant and black cherry fruits, deeply coloured, cocoa dusted, opening to show rose bud and lilac, with an edge of capsicum and cayenne pepper. Exceptionally good quality. 78% new oak for ageing, 3.79ph. Andrea Léon technical director, organically farmed.

The 2021 Clos Apalta consists of 75% Carménère, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Merlot, aged for 24 months in 75% new French oak. It opens with a rich, lavish and inviting bouquet of black fruits, purple flowers, pipe tobacco and graphite. The palate is smooth and velvety, revealing its ripe, vibrant character while maintaining a sense of sophistication. It concludes with a focused, lively finish of ripe fruits and polished tannins. While it distinctly emphasizes its luxurious profile, it does so without completely overshadowing its origins, something not all who chase this style accomplish.