Poderi Aldo Conterno, Barolo, Bussia Romirasco 2021

Considered the heart of Bussia and historically mapped as a single vineyard as early as 1875, the 2021 Barolo Bussia Romirasco pours a jeweled ruby hue and opens with layered aromatics of framboise, violets, fresh lavender, tar, and dark mineral earth. The site shares limestone and iron-rich soils with Cicala but includes a portion of magnesium-rich soils similar to Colonnello. Medium to full-bodied, the wine marries finesse with power, revealing refreshing acidity and beautifully defined tannins that carry through a long finish. I love this wine now, yet it will surely evolve for decades. It is one of the most impressive wines I have tasted from the estate in some time. Drink 2026-2057.

The 2021 Barolo Romirasco is exceptionally vivid and finessed. This is one of the finest recent versions I have tasted. Light on its feet and deceptive at first, the 2021 races across the palate with tons of pure energy. Chalk, mint, white pepper, herbs, iron and dried flowers give this mid-weight, structured Barolo gorgeous aromatic presence and perfume. There's just a touch of oak that needs time to integrate. Impeccable.

Graphite and minerals dominate on the nose, with potpourri, dried cherries, orange zest, wax and licorice. There is a lot of fruit sweetness on the palate, with firm, dusty yet ripe tannins and long, refreshing acidity. Full-bodied, it will age for decades. Try from 2027.

Romirasco is the estate’s largest site, directly east of Cicala but combining the geology of the latter with that of Colonnello, and so typically ends up being the most balsamic in profile. The 2021 wafts mint, rosemary, slightly grilled nuances and a hint of dark chocolate. The palate flows smoothly and seamlessly, giving an impression of weightlessness yet with profound depth and concentration. Inner floral perfumes mingle with spicy pepper, and velvety tannins build to an imposing volume, picking up grainy wood and clamping down dryly on the finish. I look forward to revisiting many years from now.