Querciabella, Camartina, IGT 2021

On a par with the 2016 for outright quality, this modern Camartina is a very different style, which shows just how the wine has come in the last five years. Some frost damage in April lowered yields, but rainfall in May set the vines up for the hot, dry summer, althought fortunately there were no extreme heat spikes as experienced in 2020. The vines were refreshed by rain in the autumn, prolonging the growing season. Aromatic and lifted, this charms with its violet and hedgerow berry fragrance. It's full of energy, tightly coiled and beautifully balanced, with a menthol-fresh attack which gives way to precise pomegranate, strawberry and blackberry overlaying wood. Great poise – and tremendous potential. 9,400 bottles.

The 2021 Camartina (Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese) is a potent, tightly wound offering from Querciabella. Blue-toned fruit, graphite, dried cherry, mocha and new leather all take shape gradually. The 2021 is a touch compact today, but I see that as a positive for its long-term prospects. Readers will have to be patient with this classy, polished wine. Camartina was once the flagship at Querciabella. These days, it gets a lot of competition from the Gran Seleziones!