Raats, MR Mvemve Raats Compostella, Stellenbosch 2021

Could this be the best MR yet? Debuted in 2004, now in its 11th vintage, the project is by Mzokhona Mvemve and Bruwer Raats. Each component of this five-way Bordeaux-style blend (all the grapes, including 15% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, are from Raats’s Polkadraai farm) is matured in separate barrels, the friends then blind tasting each to determine inclusion. Lifted aromas of sea breeze, oyster shell, seductive black roses, sappy twigs and a wave of polished wood resin, like the inside of an instrument. Succulent, rich flavours of blackcurrants, dark plums and cherries are wrapped up tight in silky tannins and flushed with granitic freshness. Power and precision.

This is a seamless and sophisticated red showing waves of black plums, violets, black tea, cloves, graphite, bitter chocolate and bay leaves on the nose. There’s weight and depth here, beautifully present from the start to finish, yet it is weightless at the same time. Elegant, medium-bodied, with super fine tannins and a long, persistent finish. 35% cabernet sauvignon, 26% cabernet franc, 20% merlot, 17% malbec and 2% petit verdot. Try after 2024.

The 2021 MR de Compostella is blended from five components of five Bordeaux varieties from parcels deemed the best for each one, a selection made in the winery to create the final blend, which is then assessed for whether it deserves to be released. It has a lovely floral bouquet with pressed iris flowers, black cherries, clove and light potpourri scents. The medium-bodied palate has fine tannins, fresh and tensile with layers of minerally black fruit and a very Bordeaux-like, precise finish that lingers in the mouth. As usual, this MR has a wonderful sophistication and will mature gracefully over the next 20 years.

The Mvemve Raats 2021 Stellenbosch De Compostella is a blend of 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Cabernet Franc, 20% Merlot, 17% Malbec and 2% Petit Verdot. The idea is to create a constellation of stars found in a galaxy. Production is 8,000 bottles. The oak regime sees 25% new oak, 25% second-fill barrel, 25% third-fill barrel and 25% fourth-used oak. This is a big and bold red wine that is rich in tannins and fruit weight. Black fruit is the protagonist, with subtle nuances of green herb, rosemary and red rose in supporting roles. Mvemve Raats has crafted a thickly concentrated and modern wine.