Domaine Raymond Usseglio, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Imperiale 2022

The 2022 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Imperiale—tasted as a tank sample—boasts knockout aromas of rose petals, garrigue, ripe cherries and red raspberries. It's full-bodied and tannic, concentrated yet somehow light, airy and refreshing at the same time, with a long, lingering finish. Great stuff from vines more than 100 years old.

In 2021, Usseglio said, "We were lucky to not get frosted—only five out of 25 hectares were affected." Of course, he and his pickers had to dodge the same raindrops as everyone else during harvest, but his 2021s have turned out really well. In 2022, he said, "We had a good winter, then it was very dry, with small berries. With the coolish nights, the vines didn't stop—we already had finesse at the end of August. The ferments went fast, malolactic was quick [and] the wines are accessible early, like 2007."

If the wines really turn out like 2007, the 2022 vintage could be one for the ages—and not just at this domaine.

Drink 2025 - 2040

The 2022 Châteauneuf Du Pape Cuvée Impériale is also brilliant, with an incredibly layered, seamless, medium to full-bodied style that shines in the vintage. Black raspberries, ripe strawberries, spring flowers, and spicy, subtly Provençal notes all give way to a medium to full-bodied, flawlessly balanced, elegant Grenache with fine tannins and a great finish. As always, this cuvée is mostly Grenache from the Farguerol North) and Pied Long lieux-dits, and it’s raised all in concrete.