M. Chapoutier, Hermitage, Le Meal Rouge 2022

The 2022 Ermitage Le Méal is gorgeous. While the barrel sample tasted last year accentuated its floral qualities, the finished version kicks off with boatloads of graphite, followed by ripe black plum, black cherry, cedar and a flicker of licorice. Complex and deep, the full-bodied 2022 is a polished Le Méal. I suspect it won’t require as much time to come around as the L'Ermite from the same vintage. Although rich and concentrated, the 2022 imparts sufficient freshness to keep it all in check and winds down with endurance on the complex finish.

One of the highest points in Chapoutier's lineup this year, the 2022 Ermitage Le Méal evokes aromas of violet, lilac, spices, pepper and dark berries. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated and layered, it's more charming than Monier de la Sizeranne with a fleshier core of fruit and more harmonious, velvety tannins, concluding with a floral, ethereal finish. Delicately crafted and refined on the palate, this wine was fermented with 15% whole bunches and aged in a significant proportion of large barrels, 25% of which were new.