M. Chapoutier, Hermitage, l'Ermite Rouge 2022

The intensely perfumed 2022 Ermitage L'Ermite walks onto the stage with a bang, screaming from the glass with pronounced black plum, black cherry compote, cassis pastilles, dried violet and cedar notes. Nuanced graphite adds a ferrous layer. Classic to the core, the full-bodied 2022 is a standout L'Ermite that’s firmly built like a brick wall, demanding at least until 2030 before showcasing its full potential to anyone lucky enough to own a bottle or two. A long, savory finish wraps it up nicely.

Like much wine from Chapoutier this year, the 2022 Ermitage l'Ermite is brooding, slowly unfurling with notes of licorice, violet, bacon and smoke mingled with carnal/animal-like notes. Medium to full-bodied, rich and dense, it's concentrated with a structured, grippy tannic frame complemented with a muscular mid-palate and a firm, licorice and carnal-inflected finish. Despite being somewhat dry and rustic, the telluric power of the terroir allows this wine to remain approachable and distinctive, giving it a balance and control that might elude other wines under similar conditions.