Restless River, Ava Marie Chardonnay, Walker Bay 2022

Autodidact winemaker and viticulturist Craig Wessels does things differently – and fastidiously – perhaps because he hasn’t had any formal training. From a small single block, planted in 1999, which is considered to be the oldest Chardonnay in the Hemel-en-Aarde. Specific parcels are whole-bunch picked over three weeks. Pressed in an old Vaslin press, the ‘black’ juice then goes through natural ferment in barrels of mixed sizes as well as amphora. Quickly becoming something of an icon wine, the 2022 is firing on all cylinders – sensational smoky oystershell reduction, lemon leaf, blossom and creamed white pear part to an elegant yet weighted palate, flush with fruit and the house’s signature savoury acidity.

Chardonnay planted in decomposed granite soils results in luminous wines with special focus and sharpness The Restless River 2022 Upper Hemel-En-Aarde Valley Ave Marie Chardonnay shows bright tones of lemon rind, grapefruit, honey and spice. But the main focus is those pretty mineral highlights. The vines were planted in 1999, making this one of the oldest Chardonnay vineyards in this verdant valley. Unique soils plus south and southwest exposures create a medium-bodied white with elegant highness and good length. This 10,150-bottle production ages in mostly third-use French oak, but a small percentage goes into terracotta pots.

The 2022 Chardonnay Ava Marie Single Vineyard is the 15th vintage to come from these 26-year-old vines, matured in 500-liter barrels (15% new), plus 10% in amphora and 10% in stainless steel. It has a potent nose that demands attention, displaying lime fruit, citrus peel and a touch of chamomile in the background. The palate is well balanced with good concentration and depth. Slightly waxy in texture, it takes a little time to cohere, but there is a lovely orange rind and dried pineapple note on the finish. Afford this two or three years in bottle...if you can resist.