DuMOL, Highland Divide Chardonnay, Russian River Valley 2023

The 2023 Chardonnay Highland Divide comes from Dutton Ranch’s Morelli and Jentoft vineyards. Grapes were harvested September 23 and October 9, and the wine was matured for 11 months in 20% new French oak cigare barrels, which have imparted intoxicating scents of custard and caramel. As it unfurls in the glass, it reveals wafts of candied peach, guava, orange peel and tropical flowers. The full-bodied palate is more reserved at this stage, though it boasts an exceptionally silky texture and seamless vibrancy. It offers a dynamic interplay of hedonism and tension and a very long finish. It will benefit from 2-3 years in the cellar. 1,220 cases were made.

The 2023 Chardonnay Highland Divide is pliant, open-knit and nicely textured in the glass. Lemon confit, marzipan, white flowers and baked apple tart show lovely creaminess and texture. There's gorgeous density and resonance here, more than I recall seeing in most previous years. This blend of Dutton sites is terrific.