Pierre Gonon, Saint-Joseph 2023

Vinified with 80% whole clusters, the 2023 Saint-Joseph is an exquisite and distinctive wine, offering up aromas of rose, dark berries, cassis and mulberries, interwoven with delicate spicy nuances. Medium- to full-bodied, dense and layered, it’s built around a tensile core of fruit framed by precise, youthful tannins that carry through to a long, ethereal finish. Thanks to the slow ripening of the vintage, the palate structure has more in common with the wines of the 1990s than with the richer, warmer recent vintages, which tend to emphasize density. Highly expressive of its origin, this is a superb Saint-Joseph and one of my favorites.

The complex 2023 Saint-Joseph emerges initially with pronounced orange rind, fresh violets and pencil shavings. Black cherries add more nuance. Refined and smooth, the 2023 sports spot-on overall balance between elevated flavour concentration, fresh acidity and notably refined tannins lending gentle structure. A delicious red Saint-Joseph from the talented Gonon brothers that's going to benefit from at least two more years in a cool cellar.