Chateau Leoville Las Cases 2eme Cru Classe, Saint-Julien 1990

This is so classic, with a beautiful nose of blackcurrants, bell pepper, lead pencil, herbs, blackcurrant leaf and tobacco. Elegant and very fine. Medium-bodied with silky tannins. Turns to sweet berry fruit after a while. This has real Bordeaux soul. Drink or hold.

As one might expect, this is a brilliant wine, but it remains shockingly young, even for the fast evolving 1990s. Its deep ruby/purple color is accompanied by a classic, nearly restrained set of aromatics that includes notions of sweet black cherries, black currants, lead pencil, and wet stones. In the mouth, it is full-bodied, and while technically low in acidity, there is a freshness, delineation, and classicism in this full-throttle, rich, concentrated, impeccable 1990. While still youthful, it is easy to appreciate despite its substantial tannins. It is not quite as backward as the 1990 Lafite Rothschild or 1990 Latour. Anticipated maturity: now-2035. Release price: ($500.00/case)

A little less vibrant in colour than the 1982, this is closer to tawny than rose, with welcoming soot and hearth smoke on the nose, and on the first palate. The fruit is plum and loganberry, softened and atumnal, with dark spice - the Petit Verdot is making its presence felt in those early years, marking it out from the post 2005 years when this grape no longer appears. Elegant and precise, with fine tannins, softens on the finish, this is in its drinking window, revs up halfway through and again has the precise elegance that makes it so much St Julien once in its mature phase. Great, but not as good as the 1982. 50% new oak. Michel Delon owner.

The 1990 Léoville Las Cases can be a fabulous wine, although like others there is variation. This has a refined and delineated bouquet with more black fruit compared directly with the Poyferré, cedar and iris flower, scents of Earl Grey emerging with time. I admire the focus and it coheres beautifully in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with silky tannins (atypically for this Growth), impressive weight and grip, with a grippy finish (typical for this Growth). This coheres wonderfully in the glass, indicating that it could have improved further with a longer decant. Tasted single blind at the 1990 Bordeaux dinner at Medlar.