Chateau Leoville Las Cases 2eme Cru Classe, Saint-Julien 1996

Smoked tea, cassis, blackberry, cigar box, camomile, mint leaf, slate and spice, this explodes out of the glass and then holds its own, going nowhere at all over the two or three hours that we sat around the table enjoying it. The 1970 may have had the initial heartstopping armatics, but it was the 1996 that delivered long into the night. Concentrated, tannic, confident. Opened 1.5 hours before drinking, 50% new oak.

The 1996 Leoville-Las Cases is a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot and 16% Cabernet Franc picked between 25 September and 10 October (for fascinating insight, read Robert Parker's remarks about the blend with Michel Delon in the original tasting note). Now at 20 years, it has evolved into an absolutely stunning Saint Julien, clearly one of the best wines from the estate this decade. The bouquet is beautifully defined with intense black cherries, cedar, mint and a touch of oyster shell that seems to gain intensity in the glass. The palate is seamless from start to finish, extraordinarily pure, the 70% new oak totally assimilated of course, impressive weight and power allied with genuine finesse and tension towards the silky smooth finish. It stands as one of the best wines of the vintage without one iota of doubt and it will last 30-40 years without problem. You might call it "proper Claret." You might call it "delicious." Tasted July 2016.