Chateau Margaux Premier Cru Classe, Margaux 1990

The 1990 Château Margaux is really beginning to hit its stride at age 31, soaring from the glass with aromas of blackberries and cassis mingled with notions of licorice, cedar and violets, framed by subtle hints of vanilla and spice. Full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, it's seamless and complete, its velvety tannins and ripe acids entirely cloaked in a lavish but vibrant core of fruit. This is an especially dramatic, fleshy rendition of Margaux, yet it remains impeccably balanced and has decades of longevity ahead of it.

(-) Full ruby-red. Wonderfully perfumed nose combines redcurrant, plum, mocha, minerals and rose petal. Plush, fat and rich, with great sweetness and class. This has utterly compelling mouthfilling richness. Finishes smooth and endless, with great breadth. This wine showed fabulous potential from barrel, but this is the first truly outstanding bottle I've had. Drink 2005 through 2035.

The 1990 Château Margaux has an absolutely sublime bouquet with gravel-tinged black fruit, pressed violet and black truffle, much more opulent than its peers or indeed other vintages yet suffused with grace. The palate is beautifully balanced with plenty of freshness and succulence, pure black fruit, a keen line of acidity and a very harmonious finish. There is just a touch of Earl Grey on the aftertaste – a stupendous Château Margaux that will continue drinking well for many years. Tasted single blind at the 1990 Bordeaux dinner at Medlar.