Chateau Grand-Puy-Lacoste 5eme Cru Classe, Pauillac 1995

Another unbelievably rich, multidimensional, broad-shouldered wine, with slightly more elegance and less weight than the powerhouse 1996, this gorgeously proportioned, medium to full-bodied, fabulously ripe, rich, cassis-scented and flavored Grand-Puy-Lacoste is a beauty. It should be drinkable within 4-5 years, and keep for 25-30. This classic Pauillac is a worthy rival to the other-worldly 1996. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2025.

The 1995 Grand Puy Lacoste has one of the better aromatics with ample red berry fruit, black truffle, cigar box and light earthy scents. Fine complexity and vigour. The palate is medium-bodied with a supple opening, and the tannins are malleable after 30 years as white pepper and sage infuse red and black fruit. Just a touch of spicebox lines the finish. This is drinking perfectly now.

Dark ruby-red. Ripe, expressive nose combines cassis, roasted plum and coconut. Supple, very concentrated and large-scaled; actually rather backward today even if the terrific ripeness is clear to see. Quintessential firm Pauillac backbone is covered by flesh. Will rely more on its tongue-dusting tannins than its acidity to age in bottle. This wine firmed up noticeably during its second year in barrel.