Paul Jaboulet Aine, Hermitage, La Chapelle Rouge 2003

The 2003 Hermitage La Chapelle shows the warmth of the vintage, not in its alcohol, but in its sweet aromatics of plums, black olives, peppered beef, sandalwood, tapenade, and sweet earth-like aromas and flavors. There's certain a kiss of surmaturity here, but the wine is beautifully balanced, medium to full-bodied, has nicely integrated tannins, and a clean, classic Hermitage mineral-laced finish. Fully mature, it has another two decades of longevity, although it's certainly at peak and not getting better.

Deep, saturated ruby. Intensely spicy aromas of blackberry, bitter cherry, tobacco and minerals, with a complicating note of black pepper that became more pronounced with air. This is quite fresh and lively for the vintage, showing tangy red and dark berry flavors and a solid, chewy texture. Finishes with considerable finesse.