Domaine de Chevalier, Rouge Cru Classe, Pessac-Leognan 2005

The 2005 Domaine de Chevalier is in a gorgeous spot in which it has developed striking aromatic nuance while retaining quite a bit of fruit. Leather, smoke, tobacco, gravel, dried herbs and spice lend quite a bit of complexity. Bold and savory in the glass, with tons of energy, the 2005 will drink well for another decade-plus, maybe more. I very much like the energy here. The red often flies under the radar, but there is no mistaking the beauty and pedigree here. Several recent bottles have been terrific. Olivier Bernard and his family turned out a regal 2005.

A glorious wine from Domaine de Chevalier, this 2005 reveals notes of graphite, subtle charcoal, blackberry and blackcurrant fruit, a medium to full-bodied mouthfeel, silky tannins, and a long, multi-dimensional finish. This is a killer effort from the Bernard family, who own this famous terroir in Pessac-Léognan. Drink it over the next 20-30 years.

(a blend of 55% cabernet sauvignon, 35% merlot, 6% petit verdot and 4% cabernet franc; 13.3% alcohol): Saturated medium-deep ruby. Rather backward but extremely complex nose hints at cassis, blackberry, graphite, minerals and spices. Sweet, broad and rich, with enticing fresh minerality giving energy to the rather ripe, full-bodied cassis and spice flavors. Finishes perfumed and very long, with wonderfully lush, supple, fine-grained tannins and an almost decadent floral element. This is still a baby and one of the greatest young Domaine de Chevalier rouge wines I have ever tasted. It will outlive most of us: don't touch a bottle before 2018.

This is really pure and fruity with flowers and stones. Full and dense, but still a bit tight. Not really giving much at the moment, but beautifully balanced and silky, and opening up to a long, long finish. This is excellent. Pull the cork after 2015.

Saturated medium-deep ruby. Rather backward but extremely complex nose hints at cassis, blackberry, graphite, minerals and spices. Sweet, broad and rich, with enticing fresh minerality giving energy to the rather ripe, full-bodied cassis and spice flavors. Finishes perfumed and very long, with wonderfully lush, supple, fine-grained tannins and an almost decadent floral element. This is still a baby and one of the greatest young Domaine de Chevalier rouge wines I have ever tasted. It will outlive most of us: don't touch a bottle before 2018.

(13.1% alcohol) Good deep ruby. Very fresh aromas of crushed cassis, licorice, mint and cedary oak. Juicy, intense and penetrating but pliant, with a tight kernel of cassis and blueberry fruit complicated by spices and violet. At once powerful and elegant, with more concentration and sweetness of fruit than Domaine de Chevalier has offered in decades. Finishes very long and youthfully tight.