Chateau Canon Premier Grand Cru Classe B, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2009

Medium to deep garnet colored, the 2009 Canon is a little reticent to begin, opening out to notions of rare beef, cast iron pan, cigar boxes and cloves with a core of baked plums and mulberries plus a waft of dried lavender. Full, richly fruited and sill quite youthful, the palate has a firm yet velvety texture and seamless freshness supporting the generous fruit, finishing long and mineral laced.

Beautiful restraint on the nose, really stands out for its discreet exuberance and juicy nuance. Charming, fresh figs, raspberry, black cherry, cranberry, cocoa bean, espresso, salted cracker and sea salt. Melted tannins, and fully getting into its stride. As with the last time I tasted this pair, the 2009 just edges out over the 2010, and for now the gap has widened slightly. Yield 35hl/h, 60% new oak, 3.75ph.

Aromas of nuts, spices, chocolate powder, then changes to fruits and flowers. Fascinating. Full body, with silky tannins and a wonderful intensity and super polished tannins with a long, long finish. Super refined. Best Canon in years. Try in 2016.

Red-ruby color is less dark than most other '09 Saint-Emilions, which to me is not at all a bad thing. Refined, perfumed aromas of redcurrant, almond flower, incense and cinnamon. Enters the mouth light and fresh, displaying attractive red berry and mineral flavors nicely framed by sound acidity. This very well balanced wine seems almost too easy to drink now but has excellent focus and grip, and plenty of inner-mouth energy. No doubt it will develop more complexity and depth with bottle age. Almost Burgundian in style, this is a subtle wine of real substance and nuance, made in a less showy style that is not out to grab headlines. One of the most successful Canons in a long time.

Ruby-red. Superripe, slightly roasted aromas of cherry, graphite, spices and herbs. Then thick, sweet and very ripe on the palate but a bit youthfully restrained. This full-bodied Canon could use a bit more lift but maintains very good focus. Finishes with substantial ripe tannins and excellent length.

The 2009 Canon has a loose-knit, quite sensual bouquet that does not have the same depth or mineralité as recent vintages like the 2015 and 2016. The warmth of the summer comes through here, a touch of garrigues. The palate is medium-bodied with soft tannin, a little more advanced than say, the Canon-la-Gaffelières with a spicy, black pepper and sage tinged finish. Enjoy this over the next decade, but is it a long term Canon? Tasted at BI Wines & Spirits' annual Ten Year On tasting.