Chateau L'Eglise-Clinet, Pomerol 2009

How many dinners start with a wine like the 2009 L’Église Clinet? Not many that I go to that is for sure. When we opened this bottle to check on its soundness, I knew right away it was going to be one of the wines of the night, and it is. Wow. Bold and seamless in the glass, the 2009 L’Église Clinet is a great example of the vintage. It is obviously quite opulent, yet all the elements are magically in the right place. It’s always good to start strong, and we sure do.

Proprietor Denis Durantou has produced a blockbuster Pomerol from a blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc, tipping the scales at just over 14.5% natural alcohol. A riveting wine, pure, elegant, but at the same time, extremely powerful and concentrated, with stunning texture, opulence and density, the tannins are abundant, and the wine certainly in need of a decade of cellaring. Fabulous creme de cassis and cherry liqueur notes are intertwined with hints of licorice, truffle, and graphite. Full and rich, but still in an infantile state of development, this wine needs to be cellared for 10 years but should keep for five decades or more. This 2009 is absolutely profound.

The 2009 l’Eglise-Clinet was picked 14 to 28 September and matured in 80% new oak. It remains remarkably youthful on the nose, rendering the brilliant 2010 a bit introverted by comparison. This comes racing out of the blocks with ebullient red cherries, crushed strawberry and raspberry fruit, touches of dried rose petal and melted tar. With aeration there is just a touch of liquorish. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin that belies the arching structure underneath. It manages to retain awesome power and yet deliver a refined finish that feels long and tender. Stunning. Tasted at the l’Eglise-Clinet vertical at the château in April 2018.

(85% merlot and 15% cabernet franc; 14.7% alcohol; pH 3.65; 79 IPT Ruby-purple. Knockout nose is unbelievably pure and rich, exuding expressive, heady scents of raspberry, plum syrup, Oriental spices, espresso and minerals. Sweet and dense but almost magically vibrant, this wine boasts terrific depth and freshness to its pomegranate, watermelon, dark berry, mineral and floral flavors. Finishes with utterly silky tannins and outstanding palate-saturating length. One of the stars of the vintage. (Durantou's Le Petite Eglise, made from merlot vines on gravel-and-sand soil near La Grave, was fresh, clean and rather refined, with attractive sweetness to its dark berry flavors, but was quite marked by its new oak in the early going.)

Good medium ruby. Essence-of-merlot aromas of bitter cherry, blueberry, boysenberry, dark chocolate, licorice and spices, lifted by a whiff of violet. Dense, thick and sweet, with a saline nuance to the seamless flavors of dark berries, licorice and spices. Wonderfully sweet, subtle and long, finishing with substantial building tannins and a medicinal reserve that bodes well for a slow and graceful evolution in bottle. A great vintage for this estate.