Clos des Papes, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Rouge 2010

Mind blowing stuff, the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape is most likely the greatest wine ever from this estate. Still inky colored, it has a powerful, slightly backward feel in its crushed rocks, cassis, kirsch, toasted spice, licorice and dried flower-like aromas and flavors. Massively concentrated, thick, rich and textured, it delivers a serious lashing of tannin, yet nevertheless is perfectly balanced, ultra-pure, precise and long. It's the quintessential Clos des Papes and will have 30+ years of longevity. Note, yields were a miniscule 16 hectoliters per hectare, so there's not much of this out there.

Inky ruby. Potent, intensely perfumed aromas on raspberry liqueur, cherry-cola, anise and smoky garrigue. Spicy and incisive, offering palate-staining red and dark berry flavors that become richer with air. Shows a superb balance of richness and vivacity, with dusty tannins giving grip to a long, spice- and floral-dominated finish. One of the top wines from the entire Rhone from this outstanding vintage.

The 2010 looks to be extraordinary. A slightly fresher and more elegant version of the 2007, I think it may well be the greatest Clos des Papes since the 1990 and 1978. The 2010 has a dense ruby/purple color, a beautifully precise and pure nose of deep black raspberry, black cherry, boysenberry and blueberry notes with some licorice, garrigue, and bouquet garni. Additionally, there is a meaty richness that probably comes from the Mourvedre and Syrah.

It is an extraordinarily intense, fresh, lively wine with great finesse and elegance, which is somewhat unusual given the richness of fruit and the power of this wine. The color is a dense ruby/purple, perhaps slightly less opaque than the 2007, but very dark. This wine should evolve for 30+ years.

This is one of the great estates in Chateauneuf du Pape, with a history that dates back to the mid-1700s. Clos des Papes, with its 90+ acres of vines spread among 24 separate parcels in the appellation, is one of the traditional hallmarks of classic, long-lived Chateauneuf du Pape. Everything is aged in old wood foudres, no old vine or luxury cuvee is produced, and the red wine is a classic blend of 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre, 20% Syrah, and the rest Vaccarese, Counoise, and Muscardin. It is generally not fined or filtered after aging 15 months in these old wood foudres.

Tasted first in components, then from a cask that Avril figures to roughly approximate the final blend. #1: About 80% grenache. Bright and assertively perfumed, with intense red berry character and sneaky florality. Silky and smooth, with sweet raspberry and cherry flavors and good back-end cut. #2: "Lots of syrah and mourvedre," according to Avril. Deeper and darker in character, offering intense blackberry and cherry scents and flavors. Tannins give grip to the long, spicy finish. #3: "About two-thirds grenache, then all of the others," said Avril. Intense red fruit and floral aromas, with a hint of smoke. Powerful but lithe, showing impressive depth and a seamless texture. #4: 50% grenache, 30% mourvedre and 20% syrah and "all of the other permitted red varieties": Avril says that this cask is representative of where he thinks the 2010 will ultimately wind up by the time it gets into bottle. Opaque ruby. A heady, expressive bouquet of red and dark fruit preserves, incense and garrigue, with a spicy accent. Juicy and sharply focused, offering vibrant raspberry and cherry flavors that pick up weight with air. Closes on a lively, spicy note, with excellent clarity and lingering sweetness.