Clos des Papes, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Rouge 2011

One of the stars of the vintage and coming from absurdly low yields of 18 hectoliters per hectare, the 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape is a full-bodied, seamless effort that exhibits copious kirsch, ground pepper, dried flowers and underbrush as well as incredibly fine tannin, great mid-palate concentration and ample length on the finish. Relatively forward by this estate’s standards, it will be approachable at an earlier age than normal. Nevertheless, it will have 20+ years of evolution and is an awesome effort in the vintage. Drink 2015-2030.

I tasted the 2011 wine here in its four basic components, drawn from different foudres, followed by a sample of what Avril believes will be the final blend. #1: 75% grenache, 15% syrah and 10% mourvedre; intense, spice-accented red fruit aromas, with a sexy floral nuance and good back-end cut. #2: 50% syrah, 45% grenache and 5% everything else; richer and more masculine, offering deep dark fruit flavors and a hint of bitter chocolate; more serious than the first component but less precise and graceful. #3: 65% grenache and 35% syrah; graceful and silky in texture, offering vibrant red fruit and floral aromas and flavors. Very fresh, in an intriguing, pinot-like way, with excellent cut and length. #4: 65% grenache, 30% mourvedre and 5% syrah; emphatically spicy, with deep cherry and raspberry flavors and a hint of anise. The spiciness builds with air and carries through impressively. The final blend is bright ruby red with a heady bouquet of candied red fruits, potpourri and allspice, along with musky herb and mineral elements. Sappy and precise, with vibrant black raspberry and cherry flavors given lift by zesty acidity. Finishes clean and very long, with resonating floral and spice notes and harmonious tannins.

I tasted through a number of different foudres of the 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape red, which came from tiny yields of 18 hectoliters per hectare in what was a relatively prolific harvest for many producers in Chateauneuf du Pape. Proprietor Vincent Avril implemented a severe triage in both the vineyard and cellars. The result is a beautifully made, sexy, hedonistic, up-front red with plenty of mulberry, kirsch and cassis fruit, a medium to full-bodied mouthfeel, and plenty of glycerin and authority. It tips the scales at 15% alcohol. 

This admirably run estate has essentially been practicing biodynamic farming for nearly 15 years, but they were not certified as biodynamic until 2011.