Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Romanee-Conti Grand Cru 2011

Bright, deep red. Reticent, musky nose opens slowly to reveal blackberry, violet, wild herbs and spicy oak; in a rather feminine style and a showstopper. Juicy and penetrating but at the same time silky and sweet, offering an ineffable combination of red and dark berries, spices, flowers and minerals. Conveys an impression of volume and thickness without any obvious weight. Dusty tannins saturate the palate and shimmer on the unflagging finish. The combination of silkiness and vibrancy here is uncanny.

A fascinating, utterly contemplative Burgundy, the Romanée-Conti is quite dark and much more tannic at this stage than it usually is. Graphite, wild herbs, tar, plums and flowers meld together in a mysterious Burgundy endowed with considerable depth and power. This is going to be a fascinating wine to follow over the coming years and decades.

The 2011 Romanee-Conti was picked on 6 September at 26.83hl/ha. As usual, the Romanee-Conti is reticent at first, as if the wine is checking you out before deciding whether you are worthy. It then unfurls to reveal a precise, exquisitely focused bouquet with crushed strawberry, flint and smoke. The palate is devastatingly smooth on the entry. The tannins are lace-like, the acidity perfectly judged and it gently crescendos in the mouth towards a seductive poised finish that lingers incredibly long. This is a master-class in ‘less being more’: a consummate Romanee-Conti for mid- rather than long-term cellaring. 473 cases produced. Drink 2017-2035+