Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte, Blanc, Pessac-Leognan 2012

This is fabulous. It's a white that is so vertical with wonderful depth of fruit and structure. It goes on for minutes. Dense and complex. It's so structured and amazing. Peaches and mineral with a salty and savory character. It is captivating to taste now.

Tasted blind at the Southwold 2012 tasting. The 2012 Smith-Haut-Lafitte Blanc has an intense bouquet with mint-fresh Granny Smith apple scents, quite exotic compared to its peers, greengage and gooseberry, a touch of tinned apricot. The palate is crisp and fresh on the entry with lime and gooseberry notes, the acidity well judged, a healthy veneer of new oak, but it is totally in sync with the fruit. Give this 4-5 years for everything to fully assimilate and you will have a splendid white Bordeaux. This is pure nectar. Tasted January 2016.

The 2012 is a fine expression of the estate's potential to produce white wines and offers a fresh bouquet of citrus, sage, verbena, spring flowers and pears. Balanced and layered, the palate is fresh and juicy with citrus hints and a mineral-driven finish. Drink it now or over the next three to five years.

The 2012 Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc is a supple, immediate wine. Pear, quince, white flowers, slate and mint all meld together in an effortless, gracious wine to enjoy now and over the next few years. Today the 2012 comes across as a bit one dimensional and not as complex nor complete as the very best years, and yet it is absolutely gorgeous, a testament to just how privileged this site is.

Under the capable hands of the Cathiard family, this property has been producing fabulous red and white wines. The 2012, another brilliant effort, exhibits notes of orange rind, figs, mangoes, pineapples and caramelized citrus presented in a full-bodied, heady, powerful style. It should drink well for 15-20 years.