Clos des Papes, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Rouge 2012

Leading off the reds in the retrospective, the 2012 Chateauneuf du Pape hit a whopping 15.7% natural alcohol, yet doesn't show a trace of heat in its gorgeous bouquet of kirsch liqueur, blackberries, Asian spice, cured meats and garrigue. This is followed by a thick, concentrated, seamless 2012 that has the vintage's purity and rounded nature, plenty of sweet tannin, and a killer finish. Already hard to resist, it will cruise for another 15-20 years.

Showing no bricking at all, the 2012 Chateauneuf du Pape is in its early maturity. There's a lovely mushroomy savoriness layered against black cherries and cola, earth and spice. Full-bodied, supple and almost creamy-plush in texture, it's ready to drink now yet should easily go another decade.

Opaque ruby. Smoky blueberry and cherry compote aromas pick up a peppery nuance with air, along with a suave floral quality. Fleshy and seamless on the palate, offering sweet, deeply concentrated black and blue fruit flavors and a hint of lavender pastille. Spreads out and becomes spicier on the juicy, penetrating finish, which is framed by supple, slow-building tannins.