Henri Bonneau, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Reserve Celestins 2012

Full ruby. Heady black and blue fruit aromas are lifted by smoky mineral and exotic Indian spice nuances. Offers deep, palate-staining blueberry and floral pastille flavours that pick up spiciness and energy with air. Closes smooth and long, with outstanding thrust and velvety tannins.

The 2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve des Célestins is gorgeous stuff and has everything you expect from this estate. Black currants, garrigue, beef blood and ground pepper all give way to a ripe, sexy and full-bodied beauty that has sweet tannin. I’m quite sure Henri would snub his nose and call the wine too easy, in his gregarious way, but count me as a fan.

This iconic estate is no doubt in a transitional phase following the loss of Henri Bonneau in 2016. The young Marcel Bonneau is now at the helm and is receiving help from both Daniel Combin on the business side and Régis Charmasson in the vineyards and cave. The 2016 will be Marcel’s first vintage on his own, and the barrel samples are certainly promising.

According to Marcel Bonneau on this visit, all of the 2012 wine will be bottled as Reserve des Celestins. Tasted from barrel, the 2012 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Celestins flirts with that fine line between deep, chocolaty richness and raisiny over-ripeness. This is full-bodied and powerful but silky at the same time. If it's bottled soon, it should be amazing.

Drink 2027 - 2025