Jacques-Frederic Mugnier, Musigny Grand Cru 2012

The 2012 Musigny opens with the most exquisite, captivating aromatics imaginable. A seemingly eternal wine with no beginning and no end, the Musigny is a wine that calls for serious introspection as it constantly changes in the glass. Wild flowers of all sorts meld into exquisite, finely-sculpted fruit all with the support of silky tannins that only add to the wine's total sense of refinement. The finish is long, seamless and haunting. There isn't too much more to say, except that the Mugnier's 2012 Musigny is one of the wines of the year.

Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Musigny Grand Cru from J-F Mugnier was...vexing, despite such an impressive showing from barrel. Here it has muted nose at first and I was not alone in suspecting that there was a touch of brettanomyces at play and consequently it become duller, not brighter with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, perfectly judged acidity and wonderful harmony - far superior to the aromatics, as if eager to make amends. Will it have more to give once that carapace of oak retreats? This was a querulous showing.