Vietti, Barolo, Lazzarito 2014

In many ways, the gorgeous 2014 Barolo Lazzarito is the most surprising wine in the range. Once a stylistic outlier with a considerable French oak influence, today it is much closer to the other Barolos in terms of feel. Deep, dark and intense, with all of the energy of the year very much on display, the Lazzarito is super-expressive and shows a more red-toned profile than is the norm. Kirsch, mint, rose petal and chalk all develop in the glass, while beams of tannin and salinity give the wine shape and persistence. The weight and depth of Serralunga come through on the midpalate and into the finish. Even so, this is in a decidedly laid-back style for Serralunga. In 2014, I especially like the wine's aromatic presence. 

This wine represents a tremendous effort. The 2014 Barolo Lazzarito is a powerhouse Nebbiolo. Luca Currado tells me that this is one of the best vintages he has ever made. I felt it important to record his comment here because it comes as a very refreshing affirmation given all the controversy and naysaying that surrounds the 2014 vintage. Lazzarito vines sit in a shallow amphitheater that tends to lock in the summer heat. Indeed, this vineyard site suffers most in the scorching hot years and performs best in the coolest years. The bouquet is opulent and bold with black fruit and distinct traces of sweet chocolate and espresso. The mouthfeel is succulent and rich in natural fruit fiber and sweet tannins.

Great freshness and vitality here in terms of 2014 Barolos! Lovely aromas of nuts and floras with just a hint of chocolate as well. Ripe and suave with an elegant tannin structure, making the long finish very satisfying. Drink or hold.

Although this well-known property was sold to a new American owner in 2016, the winemaking team remains in place. It displays a rich, smoky, bacony nose along with some violet scents. Aged in both barriques and large casks, the wine is rich and suave, with weight and density, although there's a slight lack of acidity. Peppery and lively, this has personality in spades. The mid-palate is meaty but not extracted, leading to a long finish.