Alain Voge, Cornas, Les Vieilles Fontaines 2015

Not yet bottled, the flagship 2015 Cornas Les Vieilles Fontaines comes from a tiny parcel of very old vines and granite soils and is brought up in 25% new barrels. Its inky purple color is followed by a terrific perfume of blackberry liqueur, blueberries, ground herbs, new saddle leather and violets. Deep, rich and concentrated, with a classic, focused style, it has terrific purity of fruit, ripe, polished tannin and a big finish. It's not the biggest example of this cuvée, yet it's perfectly balanced, elegant and seamless. Unfortunately, I had an off bottle of the 2015 Cornas Les Vieilles Vignes, but I’ll purchase a bottle locally as soon as possible and update the report. Nevertheless, winemaker Albéric Mazoyer has produced brilliant 2015s and 2016s.

Only produced in top vintages this is the first since 2012), the 2015 Cornas Vieilles Fontaines comes from 80-year-old vines within the La Fontaine lieu-dit. It's a tough wine to evaluate at this stage, as it's quite closed and reticent on the nose, showing some crushed-stone notes and typical granite-based austerity, but on the palate it shows great purity of fruit and vigor. It's full-bodied but tight-laced, focused on driving through the long finish like a thoroughbred down the stretch. Give it at least 5 years in the cellar.

aged in barriques and demi-muids, 25 percent of them new, for two years) Saturated ruby. Deep-pitched black and blue fruit scents are complicated by suggestions of potpourri, smoky minerals, incense and cola. Broad, fleshy and concentrated, offering palate-staining but shockingly vivacious cherry, blueberry and floral pastille flavors accented by smoky Indian spices and minerals. Sweet and penetrating on the youthfully tannic finish, which shows superb clarity and dark-fruit-driven persistence.