Elio Grasso, Barolo, Runcot Riserva 2015

Lots of plums, ripe strawberries, walnuts, smoke and tar on the nose, together with some black mushrooms, following through to a full body with powerful yet polished tannins and a long, long finish. Drinkable now, but better in three or four years.

The last time we saw this iconic wine was in 2013 (a vintage that earned a perfect score). Following up on that success, the Elio Grasso 2015 Barolo Riserva Rüncot is a generous, open-knit Nebbiolo that has much of the warmth and sunshine locked deep within its core. The bouquet reveals broad brush aromas of black fruit, blackberry preserves, smoky tar and baked plum. With 7,000 bottles made, this Riserva is smooth and velvety in texture. There's no reason why it can't hold until the mid-century mark.

The 2015 Barolo Riserva Rüncot is absolutely gorgeous. That much is clear. The only thing the 2015 needs is time. Time in the glass brings out the wine's inner perfume and bright, red-toned fruit. Blood orange, spice, mint, licorice and dried flowers linger on the persistent, sculpted finish. Readers should not plan on opening a bottle any time soon, as the Rüncot only starts to drink well at around age ten, at a minimum. There is certainly plenty to look forward to.