Chateau Duhart-Milon 4eme Cru Classe, Pauillac 2016

Streamlined and pared back to the essentials, this is an excellent Duhart that has the classic reserve of this wine but with a pure fruit quality. There is a beautiful balance between fruit and tannins, and a clear elegance, almost surprisingly soft for a wine known to be backwards when young. But the softness is deceptive because there is both concentration and richness, it's simply the 2016 sleight of hand. From a blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon and 33% Merlot, to be aged in 50% new oak. Drinking Window 2027-2050.

The 2016 Duhart-Milon-Rothschild is a blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon and 33% Merlot picked between 26 September and 12 October with around 13.3% alcohol, slightly higher than in 2015 that suffered a little dilution. The bouquet is tightly wound with blackberry, cigar box and sous-bois aromas that gently unfold in the glass. This is classic, conservative Duhart-Milon. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, a crisp line of acidity, just a touch of black pepper enlivening the black fruit. Overall, this represents in some ways a return to the slightly more austere style of Duhart-Milon, yet there is perhaps now more approachability and certainly plenty of freshness. For me, this is a step up from the 2015 and it comes recommended.