Chateau Mouton Rothschild Premier Cru Classe, Pauillac 2016

A towering, thrilling wine, the 2016 Mouton Rothschild is unbelievably beautiful today. Aromatics, fruit density and vertical structure all come together. In the glass, the 2016 is remarkably vivid and powerful, and yet a gentler, more feminine side emerges with time in the glass. The intense, mineral, savory profile recalls the 1986, but the 2016 has more grace, inner sweetness and sophistication than that wine. Even so, the 2016 is going to need at least a number of years in bottle before it starts drinking well, although it won't be the bruiser the 1986 remains to this day. This is breathtaking wine from Mouton, Tecnical Director Philippe Dhalluin and his team.

The 2016 Mouton-Rothschild has an understated bouquet at first, featuring scents of blackberry, bilberry and traces of kelp and brine. Wonderful delineation here, and it builds in intensity with a few swirls of the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity, a velvety-smooth texture and an elegant, utterly beguiling finish that flirts with perfection. Astonishing. Kudos to Philippe Dhalluin, who will be retiring from his position at the end of the year. Tasted blind at the Southwold tasting.