Chateau Pichon Baron 2eme Cru Classe, Pauillac 2017

A blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon and 22% Merlot aged 18 months in 80% new French oak, the 2017 Chateau Pichon-Longueville Baron sports a vivid purple hue as well as gorgeous notes of creme de cassis and black raspberry fruits interwoven with classic Pauillac lead pencil, crushed rocks, chocolate, and violet notes. Full-bodied and concentrated, yet elegant and seamless, it has remarkable purity, flawless tannins, beautifully integrated acidity, and a great finish. It's going to hit the early stages of prime drinking in 7-8 years and cruise for 20-25 years or more.

Made from 79% Cabernet Sauvignon and 21% Merlot, the 2017 Pichon Baron is deep garnet in color. It races out of the glass with super-charged scents of warm black and red currants, mulberries, and Morello cherries, plus suggestions of Ceylon tea, rose oil, and Sichuan pepper. The medium-bodied palate is so fine and elegant, with a gorgeous backbone of freshness and densely pixilated tannins, finishing long and fragrant. This is very impressive.

The currants, blackberries and spices are very pretty here on the nose. The palate is medium-to full-bodied with round, compact tannins and a fresh, linear finish. Cool and racy. Strong and focused. Drink after 2023.

Enjoyable, softening in structure even at four years old, with an enticing grilled quality to the blueberry and blackberry fruit. Less concentrated than the 2016 vintage, as is typical for the 2017s even in a muscular appellation such as Pauillac, but with charm and finesse, and supple tannins. Crushed mint leaf character on the finish adds to the feeling of a well-handled, confident wine. 80% new oak, 30hl/h yield (not because oft the frost that affected many in the vintage, but because of their low-yielding 60-year-old Cabernet vines).

The 2017 Pichon-Baron has developed into a potent wine, even by its own standards. Black cherry, plum, chocolate, grilled herbs, licorice, new leather and spice all flesh out in a succulent Pauillac that shows the racier personality of the year. In the glass, Pichon is dark, racy and sumptuous as it so often is, with terrific density and explosive energy. Today, I see less of the aromatic brilliance the wine showed en primeur; perhaps that will come with time. The 2017 spent 18 months in 80% new oak.

The 2017 Pichon-Baron was picked from 18 September with the Merlot, finishing on 3 October with the Cabernet Sauvignon, matured in 80% new oak for 20 months. It has a crisp, precise and tightly wound bouquet, although the aromatics feel a little reticent. Likewise, the tannins are a little conspicuous at this precise moment. They will soften with time. There is commendable body and precision, slightly peppery towards the finish with a tang of cracked black pepper on the aftertaste. Very fine - what you might call a "solid" Pichon Baron.