Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Richebourg Grand Cru 2017

The 2017 Richebourg Grand Cru is a fitting end to a vertical that several attendees voted wine of the night. It has a riveting bouquet, very harmonious with Earl-Grey-tinged red fruit, forest floor and hints of crushed stone. Wonderful delineation. The palate has exquisite balance and poise, a little powdery in texture with gentle grip. Layered dark berry fruit with hints of bay leaf and cola build towards the finish. Yes, it does need time, but I would not begrudge anyone giving into temptation in the near future. Tasted at the Richebourg vertical dinner in Taipei.

With its extravagantly aromatic perfume, the Richebourg is reminiscent of an exotic Asian tea with notes of bergamot, anise and lavender-scented pomegranates. Initially, the texture is firm and somewhat restrained, but the palate shows more richness and density. As Aubert noted, it is a wine that 'likes to be seen and is not shy at all'. This classic Richebourg is produced from several parcels that total over 3.5ha, including the portion that borders Romanée-Conti and La Romanée to the north. Superb!

The 2017 Richebourg Grand Cru is a Burgundy of Cistercian austerity. Searing tannins give the Richebourg its trademark sense of energy and vibrancy. White pepper, mint, dried flowers and bright red berry fruit are all beautifully delineated, with underlying beams of minerality and salinity that lend dimension. Richebourg is very rarely finessed, but is more typically a wine of brawn and pure power, as it is here. A range of bright, floral/savory accents suggest a bit more elegance may lie ahead. We will see. My colleagues appreciate the Richebourg more than I do. Harvest began the afternoon of September 8, after Romanée-Conti. Rain on the 9th caused a break in picking for the day. The last of the Richebourg came in on the 10th.

The 2017 Richebourg Grand Cru offers up generous aromas of ripe strawberries, raspberries, cinnamon and coniferous forest floor, framed by a lavish application of creamy new oak that's less immediately integrated than in the Domaine's other wines at this early stage. On the palate, the Richebourg is full-bodied, rich and multidimensional, with a lavishly enveloping attack and supple structuring tannins that are almost entirely concealed by its deep core of fruit. Long and sapid, this is a spectacular wine in the making.