Chateau Brane-Cantenac 2eme Cru Classe, Margaux 2018

The 2018 Brane-Cantenac opens with a super-classic bouquet of dried herbs, pencil shavings, licorice and mint. Medium in body and wonderfully nuanced, Brane-Cantenac marries the natural richness of the year with a classic structural feel. This is one of the most elegant, restrained 2018s readers will come across. I loved it.

What strikes me about this Brane-Cantenac is the gorgeous center palate of ripe fruit, which gives an impression of generosity, yet it’s tight and reserved at the same time. Fine and polished tannins follow on and drive this gorgeous fruit.

This is a serious wine, with well constructed walls and floor, but it's full of life too, with brambled, succulent and generously-extracted fruit on the nose. It has less immediate charm than some in the appellation and will take a while to come round, but it has clear ageing ability and is one to savour. You feel the precision and confidence in how it presents itself. 1% Petit Verdot makes up the blend - there was no Carmenère in the grand vin in 2018. 45hl/ha yield. 70% new oak.

The grand vin 2018 Château Brane-Cantenac checks in as 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, and the balance Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot that fermented in wooden tanks and saw malolactic fermentation and aging in 70% new French oak. It's a beautifully layered, sexy beauty loaded with notions of blackcurrants, spicy oak, camphor, and dried tobacco. Medium to full-bodied, balanced, and layered on the palate, it has a seamless texture, sweet tannin, remarkable freshness and purity, and a great finish. Count me in as a fan. This is another irresistible 2018 that should be snatched up by readers. It will keep for 25-30 years.

The 2018 Brane-Cantenac is deep garnet-purple in color and delivers expressive black cherry compote, blueberry coulis and crème de cassis scents with suggestions of cigar box, Provence herbs and lavender. Full-bodied with mouth-filling, rich black fruit preserves, it has a velvety texture and a long, perfumed finish.

The 2018 Brane-Cantenac is like other Bordeaux wines in this vintage insofar as they are not evolving as well as, say, 2016s or 2019s. The fruit is concentrated but just lacks a little delineation, though it opens in the glass with touches of white pepper and black olive. The palate is medium-bodied and lightly spiced, with fleshy ripe tannins that provide a rounded, corpulent texture, but I seek more tension and mineralité on the finish. I actually now prefer the 2017 vintage to the 2018. Tasted at the Brane-Cantenac vertical at the château in September 2025.