Adrianna Vineyard Malbec Mundus Bacillus Terrae, Bodega Catena Zapata 2019

One of the most exciting wines of the September Releases, and one that captures the progress and interest around terroir in the Argentinian wine scene right now. This is set at 1,500m elevation, on limestone dominant soils, and it immediately sets itself apart by its soaring aromatics that give nuance and depth, with seductively curling peony and raspberry leaf. Powerful and full of character, somehow translates the idea of minerality that is so argued over in wine - here you feel it in the slightly chalky tannins, the pulses of electricity, and dried herb and fennel studding to the fresh raspberry and red cherry fruits. So good. Ungrafted vines, Fernando Buscema winemaker.

The sleek and elegant 2019 Adrianna Vineyard Mundus Bacillus Terrae is now certified organic (since 2018) and comes from vines planted in 1992 at 1,390 meters above sea level in Gualtallary on alluvial limestone soils. Seventy-five percent of the volume fermented in concrete vats with 50% full clusters, and the remaining 25% fermented in oak foudres. But instead of fermenting the grapes, they only fermented the juice (like it's usually done for white wines), to give the wine more elegance and lightness. I was listening to a record from a new band, Generation Radio, with musicians from Journey and Chicago, and the music had a similar profile to the wine: sleek, elegant, polished, nicely crafted, clean and harmonious, easy to listen to (and drink) with a soft side to it. The wine has ripeness (14% alcohol) but also the high acidity from the high-altitude vineyards that makes it very lively, beautifully textured, balanced and elegant. Beautiful. 5,400 bottles were filled in November 2020.

Lots of black fruit with black truffles and dried flowers. Moss and earth, too. Full-bodied and earthy on the palate with blackberry and black earth. Firm, tight finish with juicy fruit at the end. Needs three or four years to open. Drink after 2024.

The 2019 Adrianna Vineyard Mundus Bacillus Terrae is made from 100% Malbec from a single vineyard of 1.4 hectares composed of limestone and marine deposits. Deep purple-black colored, it needs considerable swirling to shake loose scents of crushed red and black currants, Morello cherries, and cedar chest, plus suggestions of lilacs, crushed rocks, and cardamom. The refreshing, delicately played, light to medium-bodied palate delivers a quiet intensity of bright black and red berry layers, supported by super-ripe, super-finely grained tannins, leading to a long and perfumed finish on this stunning wine.

Sweet, joyful and full of life, this is immediately really quite vibrant on the palate, the rich, concentrated blackcurrants and black cherries given lift by high acidity and a touch of sweetness as well as saltiness that gives such a brilliant combination of flavours. Complex and confident. I like the styling here, there are hints of bitterness and some spiced edges that give nuance, still quite youthful. Great potential. Consistent winemaking and quality. Fermentation in concrete vats (75%) with 50% whole cluster, the remaining 25% in oak foudres. Ageing 18 months in French oak barrels.